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Conversions

Basement conversion costs

Find out how much YOUR basement conversion will cost

November 9, 2018

Basement conversions are a popular way of increasing space and square footage and adding value to your home, especially where building up is not an option. We have built several basements in Central London, allowing families to expand their living area, avoid being uprooted and save the prohibitive costs of  moving home. In fact, the value to cost ratio of building a basement is more favourable than many people expect.

We thought we’d share some of our insights on the factors that will affect the cost of converting a basement.

  1. Existing cellar

Do you already have an existing space in your basement that you want to convert into something habitable? If a space already exists, this is the best-case scenario of a basement conversion as the heavy-lifting has already been done. The cost of converting an existing cellar into something more usable would be approximately £2000 per m2, depending on the specs you choose. The costs will increase if you need to increase the head heights or lower the floor.

  1. Basement excavation

If you need to excavate a basement, naturally the costs will be higher simply because the amount of work required will be more. The specific areas that will need to be costed are:

  • Removal of excess material under the home. You will need to factor in digging equipment, skips and additional labour.
  • Tanking and waterproofing. This is the single most important aspect of a basement conversion. Find out why.
  • Underpinning walls
  • Rerouting drains
  • Adapting to ground conditions which may only be revealed once your builder starts excavating
  • Adapting to water table levels.

You should expect the cost of a new basement excavation to be approx. £3000-4500 per m2.

  1. Use of Basement

What will the room be used for? This is a vital factor in determining the cost. Basements are used for a variety of rooms including, gyms, cinema rooms, garden rooms, kitchens, playrooms, swimming pools and other. The cost of building any of these will depend on the specs you specify. Obviously, installing a swimming pool, state of the art cinema room or a kitchen will be more expensive than the cost of installing a gym.

  1. External Access

Do you require external access to the basement? This will add to your cost as a separate entrance and full access path will have to be excavated and created. It would be more cost-effective to have access from within the house, however, that may not always be desirable if, for example, your basement is going to be used for work (consulting rooms), where you don’t want your clients going through the house.

  1. Other costs

There are other costs you need to consider and factor in your overall cost of build. These are costs that are usually incurred even before a single stone is broken.

A basement conversion can add valuable space to your property, however, it’s important to consider all the elements mentioned above when you are working out the costs. If you’d like a handy tool to help you plan your project, please download our FREE project management checklist.

If you’d like to have a look at some of the basements we’ve built (and we’ve done a fair few), please visit our Projectspage on our website.

And if you’d like to pick our brains on a basement conversion you are thinking about, please do not hesitate to get in touch. You can either book a FREE consultation where we’d be happy to pop around to your property and share some of our thoughts and recommendations or give us a call on 0208 191 7595to have a quick chat.

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Basement conversions – Find out what’s MOST important

October 30, 2018

You can add valuable space to your home or property by building a basement. If you are thinking of creative ways of adding floor space in your home to incorporate perhaps a wine cellar or a home cinema or even a swimming pool, consider venturing downwards to the basement.

There are several structural regulations that must be adhered to when excavating below ground and these are areas that your architect and builder will take care of. However, one of the most important elements to consider is the waterproofing of your basement. One of the reasons homeowners are put off building basements is due to the possibility of flooding and leaking resulting in damage to furniture or equipment. Basement conversion waterproofing is therefore a vital decision in your conversion project.

We cannot stress enough how important it is to ensure your basement has a robust and hardy waterproofing system installed. Whatever method of waterproofing you choose for your basement conversion, it should be appropriate for resisting ground water pressure and should have British Board of Agreement (BBA) or similar independent technical accreditation.

One of the well-known waterproofing methods used by many builders is ‘tanking.’Tanking is a generic term used to describe various mediums which are used to deal with water entering a below ground building. Tanking membranes are really barriers which are applied to the structure to physically hold back water ingress and are the more traditional method of dealing with water from the ground. Tanking forms a completely waterproof box in the ground – like an inside-out swimming pool – but water pushing against a solid tanking barrier has a way of finding its way past or through in the end.

Today, most basement specialists use a more sophisticated cavity membrane system. This is a textured breathable membrane around the entire basement behind which any damp is trapped and channelled down the outside of the basement walls, under the floor and into a sump from where it is pumped harmlessly away.

As experienced builders with many years under our belts, the SDA Team have often been called in to fix many a botched project, and sadly one of the most common botches is poor waterproofing.

For this very reason, SDA Build London is proudly accredited by the UK’s leading waterproofing brand, Delta, with all our basement conversion projects installing their cutting-edge Delta Membrane Systems.

This high-density polyethylene covering is applied to the walls, floors and ceilings of a basement dig out, where it blocks, controls and drains any potential ground water ingress from entering a property. It can be applied to new, existing and retrofit projects, and is flexible and durable so it can cope with movement or vibration in the home – important as this is often the cause of basement flooding! All our Delta Membrane installations come with a 30-year warranty that ensures your basement is protected.

If you are building a basement and need some advice on waterproofing options, do give us a call on 0208 191 7595. Or simply book a FREE consultation via our website. We’d be happy to visit your property and share our thoughts on what might be your best way forward.

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Underfloor Heating vs Radiators? And the winner is…

October 26, 2018

Are you torn between underfloor heating and radiators? We found a useful article in Homebuilding & Renovating that might help you make a decision.

Scroll down to read the article.

Your choice of heating emitter will dictate the way in which heat is distributed and, crucially, how you experience it in your home. What’s more, choosing between underfloor heating and radiators is often the starting point for choosing a new heating system for a self build or renovation project.

There are three main options:

  • Underfloor heating (UFH) now tends to be the emitter of choice for many self builders and renovators, for the comfort, efficiency and the extra wall space it gives.
  • Radiators are cheaper than UFH and choice is as much about aesthetics as it is by the amount of heat needed.
  • Skirting board heaters are not yet as popular as we might have expected 10 years ago, but they do have a lot to offer, especially in retrofit projects, being something of a halfway-house between UFH and radiators.

Choosing Underfloor Heating

Underfloor heating offers an effective, efficient heating medium that’s out of sight and makes no demands on wall space.

It works by effectively turning the entire floor area into a radiator, via warm water pipes (wet UFH) or electric mats concealed within the floor structure. (We will be looking at wet UFH for the purposes of this article.) Warm water pipes are typically embedded within a screed. But there are other methods of installation, particularly for renovators.

The resulting gentle heat (due to the floor’s large surface area, it only needs to be a couple of degrees warmer than room temperature,) rises steadily upwards, and there are no cold spots or draughts, making for a very comfortable environment.

To add to that, underfloor heating is the perfect partner to a heat pump, which is effective at producing the low temperature required.

The Importance of Reaction Time

This is the time taken for the heating system to bring the room to the desired temperature and to cool down again.

You will need to decide how to run the system (your required reaction time), which is largely determined by the thickness of the screed:

  • A thick screed will give a long reaction time, especially if the UFH pipes are housed in the concrete slab. With a reaction time of over four hours, it is best to run the UFH system 24 hours per day. The system would be run at a lower room temperature – say 15°C or 16°C – to provide background heating to the whole house, with highlight heating (i.e. a woodburning stove) in the rooms that are actually occupied.
  • With a thin screed and a reaction time of around 30 minutes, the system can be run in a similar way to a radiator system.

Pros of underfloor heating

  • They operate at lower temperatures than radiators and are therefore more energy efficient
  • They can be paired with renewable technology. As UFH does not need high water temperatures to operate, it is particularly well-suited to heat pumps
  • Underfloor heating frees up wall space
  • It’s aesthetically more pleasing
  • It distributes heat more evenly so there are no cold spots

Cons of underfloor heating

  • It is not instantaneous (depending on the set up) as radiators, and could take a couple of hours to heat the room up; although conversely radiators also cool down faster
  • The floor finish needs consideration
  • Installing underfloor heating needs more planning and must be properly done to ensure optimum efficiency
  • It’s more expensive than installing radiators

Choosing Radiators

The advantage of radiators is that they are quick to warm up and easy to control, particularly with the new breed of smart valves.

“Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) are now ubiquitous, but think about digital programmable valves instead,” says energy efficiency expert Tim Pullen. “There are lots to choose from at around £25 each, and they really do reduce your heating bill by only heating rooms when and to what temperature you want.”

Sizing up Radiators

The size of a radiator will depend on a number of factors, including:

  • The dimensions of the room/space
  • The number of doors or windows
  • The insulation levels and presence of external walls

Size is calculated in BTUs (British Thermal Units). A heating engineer or plumber will work it out for you or you can use an online heat output calculator.

“All radiators have a specified heat output so once you know how much heat the room needs you can choose the type, size and style to suit your taste and the room,” says Tim Pullen.

Pros of Radiators 

  • Radiators are quick to respond to changes in temperature
  • They are cheaper to install
  • Less disruptive to install in existing homes

Cons of Radiators

  • Uneven heat distribution resulting in cold spots
  • They cool down quicker than underfloor heating
  • They are less energy efficient
  • They take up wall space, impacting furniture placement
  • They are not the most aesthetically pleasing

Skirting Heating

Doing away with radiators and cheaper than underfloor heating, skirting heating has the external appearance of regular skirting boards but conceals pipework or electrical elements.

It distributes gentle, even heat at a low temperature with minimal air movement. Unlike underfloor heating, skirting heating can be turned on and off to suit as its responsiveness is more akin to radiators.

If you need help or advice in making a decision on what would be the best system for your property, do give us a call on 020 8191 7595 or why not book a FREE property refurbishment consultation? We’d be happy to pop over to your property and share some of our thoughts.

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Basement Conversion

What you didn’t know about basement extension building regs

October 19, 2018

With space at a premium these days, high property prices and soaring stamp duty rates, we have seen an increase in extensions, loft conversions and basement conversions as a way to increase the living area of a home. Whilst extensions and loft conversions have been common, basement conversions in the London area are relatively new, but increasingly popular route to include areas such as wine cellars, cinema rooms, gyms and home offices.

Basement conversions will need a Building Regulation application to be submitted (i.e. a Full Plans Application or Building Notice submission), where the intention is to provide any one or all of the following. Basically, if your basement is intended to be a habitable space it will need approval from building regulations.

An extra bedroom

A bathroom or en-suite

A playroom

A study/office

A fixed staircase

Building Regulations are statutory minimum construction standards that ensure buildings are safe, hygienic and energy efficient. The renovation of an existing habitable basement, or the repair of a cellar that does not involve a change of use, i.e. from storage to storage, is excluded from Building Regulations.

Below is a summary of the issues related to basements under two-storey houses with typical floor to ceiling height.

Building regulations include:

  • Site Preparation and resistance to moisture (Part C)
  • Structure – Walls and foundations (Part A)
  • Fire Safety (Part B)
  • Conservation of fuel and power (Part L1)
  • Ventilation (Part F)
  • Resistance to the passage of sound (Part E)
  • Drainage and waste disposal (Part H)
  • Heat producing appliances (Part J)
  • Access and facilities for disabled persons (Part M)
  • Vehicle access

Basement conversions are the most expensive of domestic building work and should be designed and constructed by specialists who are aware of the health and safety aspects affecting building occupiers. The following points must be considered and catered for in basement conversions.

Tanking

Tanking systems provide an impermeable waterproofing coating to the walls and floor, helping keep cellars dry.

Proprietary tanking systems can be used and should have BBA or similar independent accreditation. The British Board of Agrément (BBA), is a UK body issuing certificates for construction products and systems and providing inspection services in support of their designers and installers).

Use cementitious render if the system has BBA or similar accreditation. Liquid applied waterproofing material can also be used and in this case an adequate loading construction must be used to reduce the risk of it being blown off the walls. Any other system that is proposed should be backed by a suitable third party insurance guarantee.

Means of escape in case of fire

The conversion of a cellar into a habitable room does add to the risk to the means of escape in case of fire in a dwelling. You may need to upgrade the ceiling areas within the basement to be fire resistant. In some circumstances, separate a basement from the rest of the house using an FD20 fire door.

Where the basement is accessed from a room at ground level, provide  an escape window or a door giving access directly to outside. A person escaping from a window or door from the basement should be able to get easily to ground level outside of the house and move away from the house. Also, provide suitable steps with a recommended pitch of 42 degrees from the window or door well.

An escape window is one that has a minimum area 0.33m² with no dimensions less than 450mm, the bottom of which is situated not more than 1100mm above the floor.

Smoke alarms

Install mains operated and interlinked smoke detectors to the ground floor hallway and first floor landing and if the basement becomes a kitchen a it a heat detector in the kitchen is a good idea.

Ventilation to the room

It’s important that you think about rapid ventilation (an opening which is not less that 1/20th of the floor area) and secure and controllable background ventilation (8000mm² for habitable rooms and 4000mm² for kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms). This is the usual standard for new rooms.

Stairs

New stairs to the room should be as the standard for new stairs i.e. 42 degrees pitch with ideally 2.0m headroom, with suitable handrails and non-climbable and with openings that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through.

Guarding to the new or enlarged window/door well

Where the difference in levels is 600mm guarding should be provided to prevent people falling into the well. It should be 1100mm high, non-climbable and with openings that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through.

Thermal insulation

A reasonable thickness of insulation should be provided to the existing walls and floor, meeting current new build standards where practicable. The insulating material must be compatible with the tanking material. New windows and doors should be to today’s standard i.e. a “U” value of 1.6 Wm²/k. The new room should be fitted with a light that is energy efficient.

So, whilst a basement is an exciting thought, you need a specialist building team, experienced in constructing basements and therefore aware of all the building regulation requirements and can come up with workable solutions to any obstacles that might come up.

Our team has been working in South West London for over 15 years and we have built several stunning basements in homes across Fulham, Kensington, Wandsworth, Putney, Kensington and Chelsea. Please visit our Projects page to have a look at some of the work we’ve done. We have recently started working in North West London, namely St. Johns Wood, Swiss Cottage, Hampstead and surrounding areas.

If you’d like a FREE Property Consultation, please get in touch. We’ll be happy to visit your property, discuss your vision for your basement and share some of our ideas and thoughts with you on what we believe will be most possible and beneficial for your property.

 

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Matching materials for an extension from Homebuilding and Renovation

October 16, 2018

If you are considering an extension think about matching the roof tiles, bricks and stone to your original build. It may be that you want a modern extension to complement your existing structure, but if you want a seamless look, matching these aspects to your original structure may need some planning.

We found this useful article in Homebuilding and Renovation on what you need to consider if you want to match the roof tiles, bricks and stones to your original structure.

Nothing ruins a house more than a badly matched extension, but with a little research, your new space can look as though it has been there forever. There are several cardinal sins when it comes to extension design, but within this article the focus is on how to source, alter and use materials in order to get your extension to blend seamlessly with what is already there.

Your main focus when striving for a matching extension should be the materials you use for its construction – namely the bricks and roof covering – but do not overlook the details that hold them together.

Matching Bricks

Matching the new bricks to the old is where it all too often goes horribly wrong for many extenders.

There are several factors to consider when choosing a brick to match your existing:

  • Colour
  • Size
  • Texture
  • Bond

To find a match, you have a couple of options.

Reclaimed Bricks

Salvage yards too usually have a huge stock of bricks and will be happy to provide samples. On the plus side, you might be able to source an exact match, they will have aged naturally, and will carry with them plenty of character — plus they can be sourced in imperial sizes to match the period originals.

There is the sustainable aspect of using reclaimed materials to bear in mind too, as they have minimal impact on the environment. It is also an easy way to keep the planners happy in cases where the use of sensitive materials has been specified.

If you opt for reclaimed bricks, be sure to buy from a reputable source and check the batch you are buying thoroughly. Also, make a note of the lot number you ordered before delivery, as it is not unknown for the wrong bricks to be delivered, leaving you with bricks that are a close but not exact match. Wastage with reclaims can also be an issue. In some cases up to 30 per cent are unusable, whereas there is little or no wastage with new bricks.

New Bricks

If reclaimed is not for you, then you can still get an exact match as many manufacturers offer bespoke brick matching. Most brick matching services are free and rely on a picture or sample of the old brick, giving you either exact matches or a good alternative. If it is the sustainable aspect that is important to you, consider that the majority of newly made bricks have an expected life of at least 150 years, meaning that walls built with new bricks get an A+ rating by BRE.

Then there is the quality of the reclaimed bricks. “It is unlikely that reclaimed bricks have been tested under the European Standard BS EN 771-1 for resistance against frost attack or likelihood to effloresce (when soluble salts appear on the surface,” explains Mark Laksevics of York Handmade Brick, and this could adversely affect NHBC and house insurance.

“There have been reports of reclaimed bricks carrying dormant dry rot spores which become active when the brick is put to use.” There is also the matter of supply. Reclaimed bricks are often only available in limited numbers, unlike new bricks, and therefore making it difficult to find a match for any further extension work.

Cost

Good quality, machine-made, standard-size bricks: around £350 per 1,000 for good-quality, machine-made, standard-size bricks.

Handmade and reclaimed bricks: around the £700–£800/1,000 mark.
“Prices go up for specialised 2” (50mm) handmades — around 90p per brick for purpose made and well over £1 per brick for reclaims, as sourcing these can be difficult,” advises Mark Laksevics.

Brick Tinting

Brick tinting is a useful way of matching new bricks to old, blending in a bad extension or to make new brick repairs less noticeable. Brick tinting does not mean that the bricks are painted. It is a process that uses a chemical and oxide solution, using various colour dyes that have been chosen for the individual situation.

The solution changes the original colour of the brick rather than just coating it, which means that the brick will weather naturally and that the new colour cannot fade. Some companies, such as Extension Match, offer a lifetime guarantee on the service.

Matching Mortar

If you have spent the time and extra effort getting an exact match for your bricks, do not go and ruin it all with the wrong mortar. It is amazing how wrong new and different mortars can look sitting next to old mortar.

If the existing mortar is crumbling or in need of replacement, then you will in some ways find yourself in an easier position as the whole thing can be repointed using the new mortar. If, on the other hand, the mortar in the existing part of the building is sound, it can seem a bit of a waste of time to take it all out and repoint just for the sake of matching the new.

Some mortar specialists will match your original if you send them a sample, whilst others can carry out a complete chemical testing process to find out exactly what the existing mortar is made up of to ensure an exact match — although this will cost you around £200.

If the original section of your home uses lime mortar, then you would be sensible to ensure the extension does too. If not, then ensure you look at plenty of samples of what your new mortar will look like once dry in order to get a good match. And, if you are still not happy once the work has been carried out, the same companies who offer brick tinting services often also offer mortar tinting.

Matching the Roof tiles

As with brick, replica rooftiles can also be made to order and reclaimed tiles are widely available, although some roofers refuse to lay them, claiming it’s a time consuming job where hairline cracks that were previously invisible can cause a lot of wastage and slipped tiles later down the line. You should also be aware that if you are planning on mixing new tiles with old or reclaimed tiles, their guarantee may be compromised. Remember, it is impossible to know how much life a reclaimed tile has.

It is possible to source tiles to match originals by looking for a manufacturer mark on the back of the tile — often giving the design and age of the tile, making it easier to find reclaimed tiles from a roofing or salvage merchant. Be aware though that while reclaimed tiles have a weathered appearance, they may still not exactly match your originals if they have been positioned at a different orientation and have more or less moss growth.

New tiles can be made to look old using stains and sprays, but it is important to remember they will naturally weather over time. Applying a coating of a nutrient such as skimmed milk or yogurt, liquid tomato fertiliser or liquid cow manure can also help speed up the growth of moss and lichen to help the new tiles blend in with the old. It is also worth noting that when it comes to rooftiles, a slight difference between the new and old is far less noticeable than with bricks as they are viewed from further away.

Matching Stone

Stone extensions can be even harder to match to the existing property than brick. Being a natural product, stone obviously has variations in colour and tone, and if the building was built some time ago it will be very hard to achieve the same texture and weathered effect as the original. Unlike bricks, stone cannot be ‘manufactured’ to match the original, but there are a few ways to find a similar look.

  • Obviously using the same stone from the same quarry will be a good start, but even this does not guarantee a perfect match.
  • Ask your supplier to build a small sample wall to check how it will sit against the original.
  • You will also need to work with the stone mason to ensure the new surface texture of the stone will match — various techniques such as ‘chiselling’ and ‘axing’ all produce a different look.
  • You need to ensure the size and course height matches too.
  • Having the original stone cleaned back to its original colour will also help.

Finally, if you are still worried, it might be best to build something completely contrasting — stone buildings look great teamed with glass, render and timber cladding.

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