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Basement Specialists 25 years experience Restoration Experts Award Winning Basement Specialists Extensions
Are you torn between underfloor heating and radiators? We found a useful article in Homebuilding & Renovating that might help you make a decision.
Scroll down to read the article.
Your choice of heating emitter will dictate the way in which heat is distributed and, crucially, how you experience it in your home. What’s more, choosing between underfloor heating and radiators is often the starting point for choosing a new heating system for a self build or renovation project.
There are three main options:
- Underfloor heating (UFH) now tends to be the emitter of choice for many self builders and renovators, for the comfort, efficiency and the extra wall space it gives.
- Radiators are cheaper than UFH and choice is as much about aesthetics as it is by the amount of heat needed.
- Skirting board heaters are not yet as popular as we might have expected 10 years ago, but they do have a lot to offer, especially in retrofit projects, being something of a halfway-house between UFH and radiators.
Choosing Underfloor Heating
Underfloor heating offers an effective, efficient heating medium that’s out of sight and makes no demands on wall space.
It works by effectively turning the entire floor area into a radiator, via warm water pipes (wet UFH) or electric mats concealed within the floor structure. (We will be looking at wet UFH for the purposes of this article.) Warm water pipes are typically embedded within a screed. But there are other methods of installation, particularly for renovators.
The resulting gentle heat (due to the floor’s large surface area, it only needs to be a couple of degrees warmer than room temperature,) rises steadily upwards, and there are no cold spots or draughts, making for a very comfortable environment.
To add to that, underfloor heating is the perfect partner to a heat pump, which is effective at producing the low temperature required.
The Importance of Reaction Time
This is the time taken for the heating system to bring the room to the desired temperature and to cool down again.
You will need to decide how to run the system (your required reaction time), which is largely determined by the thickness of the screed:
- A thick screed will give a long reaction time, especially if the UFH pipes are housed in the concrete slab. With a reaction time of over four hours, it is best to run the UFH system 24 hours per day. The system would be run at a lower room temperature – say 15°C or 16°C – to provide background heating to the whole house, with highlight heating (i.e. a woodburning stove) in the rooms that are actually occupied.
- With a thin screed and a reaction time of around 30 minutes, the system can be run in a similar way to a radiator system.
Pros of underfloor heating
- They operate at lower temperatures than radiators and are therefore more energy efficient
- They can be paired with renewable technology. As UFH does not need high water temperatures to operate, it is particularly well-suited to heat pumps
- Underfloor heating frees up wall space
- It’s aesthetically more pleasing
- It distributes heat more evenly so there are no cold spots
Cons of underfloor heating
- It is not instantaneous (depending on the set up) as radiators, and could take a couple of hours to heat the room up; although conversely radiators also cool down faster
- The floor finish needs consideration
- Installing underfloor heating needs more planning and must be properly done to ensure optimum efficiency
- It’s more expensive than installing radiators
Choosing Radiators
The advantage of radiators is that they are quick to warm up and easy to control, particularly with the new breed of smart valves.
“Thermostatic radiator valves (TRVs) are now ubiquitous, but think about digital programmable valves instead,” says energy efficiency expert Tim Pullen. “There are lots to choose from at around £25 each, and they really do reduce your heating bill by only heating rooms when and to what temperature you want.”
Sizing up Radiators
The size of a radiator will depend on a number of factors, including:
- The dimensions of the room/space
- The number of doors or windows
- The insulation levels and presence of external walls
Size is calculated in BTUs (British Thermal Units). A heating engineer or plumber will work it out for you or you can use an online heat output calculator.
“All radiators have a specified heat output so once you know how much heat the room needs you can choose the type, size and style to suit your taste and the room,” says Tim Pullen.
Pros of Radiators
- Radiators are quick to respond to changes in temperature
- They are cheaper to install
- Less disruptive to install in existing homes
Cons of Radiators
- Uneven heat distribution resulting in cold spots
- They cool down quicker than underfloor heating
- They are less energy efficient
- They take up wall space, impacting furniture placement
- They are not the most aesthetically pleasing
Skirting Heating
Doing away with radiators and cheaper than underfloor heating, skirting heating has the external appearance of regular skirting boards but conceals pipework or electrical elements.
It distributes gentle, even heat at a low temperature with minimal air movement. Unlike underfloor heating, skirting heating can be turned on and off to suit as its responsiveness is more akin to radiators.
If you need help or advice in making a decision on what would be the best system for your property, do give us a call on 020 8191 7595 or why not book a FREE property refurbishment consultation? We’d be happy to pop over to your property and share some of our thoughts.
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With space at a premium these days, high property prices and soaring stamp duty rates, we have seen an increase in extensions, loft conversions and basement conversions as a way to increase the living area of a home. Whilst extensions and loft conversions have been common, basement conversions in the London area are relatively new, but increasingly popular route to include areas such as wine cellars, cinema rooms, gyms and home offices.
Basement conversions will need a Building Regulation application to be submitted (i.e. a Full Plans Application or Building Notice submission), where the intention is to provide any one or all of the following. Basically, if your basement is intended to be a habitable space it will need approval from building regulations.
An extra bedroom
A bathroom or en-suite
A playroom
A study/office
A fixed staircase
Building Regulations are statutory minimum construction standards that ensure buildings are safe, hygienic and energy efficient. The renovation of an existing habitable basement, or the repair of a cellar that does not involve a change of use, i.e. from storage to storage, is excluded from Building Regulations.
Below is a summary of the issues related to basements under two-storey houses with typical floor to ceiling height.
Building regulations include:
- Site Preparation and resistance to moisture (Part C)
- Structure – Walls and foundations (Part A)
- Fire Safety (Part B)
- Conservation of fuel and power (Part L1)
- Ventilation (Part F)
- Resistance to the passage of sound (Part E)
- Drainage and waste disposal (Part H)
- Heat producing appliances (Part J)
- Access and facilities for disabled persons (Part M)
- Vehicle access
Basement conversions are the most expensive of domestic building work and should be designed and constructed by specialists who are aware of the health and safety aspects affecting building occupiers. The following points must be considered and catered for in basement conversions.
Tanking
Tanking systems provide an impermeable waterproofing coating to the walls and floor, helping keep cellars dry.
Proprietary tanking systems can be used and should have BBA or similar independent accreditation. The British Board of Agrément (BBA), is a UK body issuing certificates for construction products and systems and providing inspection services in support of their designers and installers).
Use cementitious render if the system has BBA or similar accreditation. Liquid applied waterproofing material can also be used and in this case an adequate loading construction must be used to reduce the risk of it being blown off the walls. Any other system that is proposed should be backed by a suitable third party insurance guarantee.
Means of escape in case of fire
The conversion of a cellar into a habitable room does add to the risk to the means of escape in case of fire in a dwelling. You may need to upgrade the ceiling areas within the basement to be fire resistant. In some circumstances, separate a basement from the rest of the house using an FD20 fire door.
Where the basement is accessed from a room at ground level, provide an escape window or a door giving access directly to outside. A person escaping from a window or door from the basement should be able to get easily to ground level outside of the house and move away from the house. Also, provide suitable steps with a recommended pitch of 42 degrees from the window or door well.
An escape window is one that has a minimum area 0.33m² with no dimensions less than 450mm, the bottom of which is situated not more than 1100mm above the floor.
Smoke alarms
Install mains operated and interlinked smoke detectors to the ground floor hallway and first floor landing and if the basement becomes a kitchen a it a heat detector in the kitchen is a good idea.
Ventilation to the room
It’s important that you think about rapid ventilation (an opening which is not less that 1/20th of the floor area) and secure and controllable background ventilation (8000mm² for habitable rooms and 4000mm² for kitchens, bathrooms and utility rooms). This is the usual standard for new rooms.
Stairs
New stairs to the room should be as the standard for new stairs i.e. 42 degrees pitch with ideally 2.0m headroom, with suitable handrails and non-climbable and with openings that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through.
Guarding to the new or enlarged window/door well
Where the difference in levels is 600mm guarding should be provided to prevent people falling into the well. It should be 1100mm high, non-climbable and with openings that a 100mm sphere cannot pass through.
Thermal insulation
A reasonable thickness of insulation should be provided to the existing walls and floor, meeting current new build standards where practicable. The insulating material must be compatible with the tanking material. New windows and doors should be to today’s standard i.e. a “U” value of 1.6 Wm²/k. The new room should be fitted with a light that is energy efficient.
So, whilst a basement is an exciting thought, you need a specialist building team, experienced in constructing basements and therefore aware of all the building regulation requirements and can come up with workable solutions to any obstacles that might come up.
Our team has been working in South West London for over 15 years and we have built several stunning basements in homes across Fulham, Kensington, Wandsworth, Putney, Kensington and Chelsea. Please visit our Projects page to have a look at some of the work we’ve done. We have recently started working in North West London, namely St. Johns Wood, Swiss Cottage, Hampstead and surrounding areas.
If you’d like a FREE Property Consultation, please get in touch. We’ll be happy to visit your property, discuss your vision for your basement and share some of our ideas and thoughts with you on what we believe will be most possible and beneficial for your property.
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If you are considering an extension think about matching the roof tiles, bricks and stone to your original build. It may be that you want a modern extension to complement your existing structure, but if you want a seamless look, matching these aspects to your original structure may need some planning.
We found this useful article in Homebuilding and Renovation on what you need to consider if you want to match the roof tiles, bricks and stones to your original structure.
Nothing ruins a house more than a badly matched extension, but with a little research, your new space can look as though it has been there forever. There are several cardinal sins when it comes to extension design, but within this article the focus is on how to source, alter and use materials in order to get your extension to blend seamlessly with what is already there.
Your main focus when striving for a matching extension should be the materials you use for its construction – namely the bricks and roof covering – but do not overlook the details that hold them together.
Matching Bricks
Matching the new bricks to the old is where it all too often goes horribly wrong for many extenders.
There are several factors to consider when choosing a brick to match your existing:
- Colour
- Size
- Texture
- Bond
To find a match, you have a couple of options.
Reclaimed Bricks
Salvage yards too usually have a huge stock of bricks and will be happy to provide samples. On the plus side, you might be able to source an exact match, they will have aged naturally, and will carry with them plenty of character — plus they can be sourced in imperial sizes to match the period originals.
There is the sustainable aspect of using reclaimed materials to bear in mind too, as they have minimal impact on the environment. It is also an easy way to keep the planners happy in cases where the use of sensitive materials has been specified.
If you opt for reclaimed bricks, be sure to buy from a reputable source and check the batch you are buying thoroughly. Also, make a note of the lot number you ordered before delivery, as it is not unknown for the wrong bricks to be delivered, leaving you with bricks that are a close but not exact match. Wastage with reclaims can also be an issue. In some cases up to 30 per cent are unusable, whereas there is little or no wastage with new bricks.
New Bricks
If reclaimed is not for you, then you can still get an exact match as many manufacturers offer bespoke brick matching. Most brick matching services are free and rely on a picture or sample of the old brick, giving you either exact matches or a good alternative. If it is the sustainable aspect that is important to you, consider that the majority of newly made bricks have an expected life of at least 150 years, meaning that walls built with new bricks get an A+ rating by BRE.
Then there is the quality of the reclaimed bricks. “It is unlikely that reclaimed bricks have been tested under the European Standard BS EN 771-1 for resistance against frost attack or likelihood to effloresce (when soluble salts appear on the surface,” explains Mark Laksevics of York Handmade Brick, and this could adversely affect NHBC and house insurance.
“There have been reports of reclaimed bricks carrying dormant dry rot spores which become active when the brick is put to use.” There is also the matter of supply. Reclaimed bricks are often only available in limited numbers, unlike new bricks, and therefore making it difficult to find a match for any further extension work.
Cost
Good quality, machine-made, standard-size bricks: around £350 per 1,000 for good-quality, machine-made, standard-size bricks.
Handmade and reclaimed bricks: around the £700–£800/1,000 mark.
“Prices go up for specialised 2” (50mm) handmades — around 90p per brick for purpose made and well over £1 per brick for reclaims, as sourcing these can be difficult,” advises Mark Laksevics.
Brick Tinting
Brick tinting is a useful way of matching new bricks to old, blending in a bad extension or to make new brick repairs less noticeable. Brick tinting does not mean that the bricks are painted. It is a process that uses a chemical and oxide solution, using various colour dyes that have been chosen for the individual situation.
The solution changes the original colour of the brick rather than just coating it, which means that the brick will weather naturally and that the new colour cannot fade. Some companies, such as Extension Match, offer a lifetime guarantee on the service.
Matching Mortar
If you have spent the time and extra effort getting an exact match for your bricks, do not go and ruin it all with the wrong mortar. It is amazing how wrong new and different mortars can look sitting next to old mortar.
If the existing mortar is crumbling or in need of replacement, then you will in some ways find yourself in an easier position as the whole thing can be repointed using the new mortar. If, on the other hand, the mortar in the existing part of the building is sound, it can seem a bit of a waste of time to take it all out and repoint just for the sake of matching the new.
Some mortar specialists will match your original if you send them a sample, whilst others can carry out a complete chemical testing process to find out exactly what the existing mortar is made up of to ensure an exact match — although this will cost you around £200.
If the original section of your home uses lime mortar, then you would be sensible to ensure the extension does too. If not, then ensure you look at plenty of samples of what your new mortar will look like once dry in order to get a good match. And, if you are still not happy once the work has been carried out, the same companies who offer brick tinting services often also offer mortar tinting.
Matching the Roof tiles
As with brick, replica rooftiles can also be made to order and reclaimed tiles are widely available, although some roofers refuse to lay them, claiming it’s a time consuming job where hairline cracks that were previously invisible can cause a lot of wastage and slipped tiles later down the line. You should also be aware that if you are planning on mixing new tiles with old or reclaimed tiles, their guarantee may be compromised. Remember, it is impossible to know how much life a reclaimed tile has.
It is possible to source tiles to match originals by looking for a manufacturer mark on the back of the tile — often giving the design and age of the tile, making it easier to find reclaimed tiles from a roofing or salvage merchant. Be aware though that while reclaimed tiles have a weathered appearance, they may still not exactly match your originals if they have been positioned at a different orientation and have more or less moss growth.
New tiles can be made to look old using stains and sprays, but it is important to remember they will naturally weather over time. Applying a coating of a nutrient such as skimmed milk or yogurt, liquid tomato fertiliser or liquid cow manure can also help speed up the growth of moss and lichen to help the new tiles blend in with the old. It is also worth noting that when it comes to rooftiles, a slight difference between the new and old is far less noticeable than with bricks as they are viewed from further away.
Matching Stone
Stone extensions can be even harder to match to the existing property than brick. Being a natural product, stone obviously has variations in colour and tone, and if the building was built some time ago it will be very hard to achieve the same texture and weathered effect as the original. Unlike bricks, stone cannot be ‘manufactured’ to match the original, but there are a few ways to find a similar look.
- Obviously using the same stone from the same quarry will be a good start, but even this does not guarantee a perfect match.
- Ask your supplier to build a small sample wall to check how it will sit against the original.
- You will also need to work with the stone mason to ensure the new surface texture of the stone will match — various techniques such as ‘chiselling’ and ‘axing’ all produce a different look.
- You need to ensure the size and course height matches too.
- Having the original stone cleaned back to its original colour will also help.
Finally, if you are still worried, it might be best to build something completely contrasting — stone buildings look great teamed with glass, render and timber cladding.
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If you are a landlord or about to become a landlord, how you renovate your rental property will depend on two main factors: the location of your property and who you intend to rent your property out to.
If, for example, your property is in a not-so-sought-after area, chances are that the rental income you receive will not justify a large spend on renovating the property. Similarly, if you are renting it out to students, it’s unlikely that you’ll want to use Farrow & Ball paint or Miele appliances.
On the other hand, if your property is in an affluent area and your tenants are likely to be young couples or families, then you may not mind spending a bit more to make it look and feel truly homely and luxurious.
However, regardless of where your property is or who your tenant is, there are some elements you must consider for any property to receive the highest possible rental yield.
If you need any help with renovating your rental property, give us a call on 0208 191 7595 or better still, why not book us in for a FREE consultation.
- Safety is no.1
As a landlord, you are legally required to providegas and electricity equipment and systems that are safe and installed by qualified suppliers. This is not an area to cut costs. Ensuring that your property is safe is your primary responsibility. Make sure you conduct all the gas and fire safety checks before renting it out.
PAT-test all white goods and electrical items by a qualified electrician.
If you are providing a furnished space, check all soft furnishings like sofa’s and upholstered chairs are fire-proof (they should have a label).
We recommend you conduct these safety checks before each new tenant moves in and provide the relevant certificates to your tenant as part of the tenancy documentation.
- Make it look good
No one is going to rent a property that doesn’t appeal to the eye at the first instance. A bright, airy and clean property will attract the right tenants at the price you want. Make sure your property is thoroughly cleaned and upgraded in between tenants.
A deep clean of the property, newly washed windows, a coat of paint, new curtains perhaps and fresh plants will add to the look and feel of the property.
- Think long-term
There are some things you MUST NOT compromise on whether your rental property is for a high-end tenant or not. These are:
Boilers – replacing a boiler is expensive and painful. We recommend you invest in a good quality boiler at the outset, installed by a qualified gas-safety certified engineer. A well-installed, good quality boiler can last at least 10-15 years.
Bathroom Fittings – Go for the good ones. Whilst you can cut costs on the ceramics (toilet, bath and sink), if you choose poor quality fittings, you are likely to receive regular calls from your tenants to repair leaks, change tap washers, shower heads and pipes.
Tiles – Tile all walls around a shower and bath, not just the bits you think will get wet. Overspray from a shower will damage walls, floors and decorations, and cost you a lot more than a couple of square metres of tiling.
- Everyone loves storage
Give your tenants plenty of storage. This will allow them to keep the property clutter-free and tidy. Invest in building storage if you don’t have enough. Fitted cupboards, loft access, garage access, storage cupboards under the staircase and in-built bookshelves amongst others can give your tenants the space they need to neatly tuck their stuff out of sight.
- Furniture & Flooring – strike a balance
When you are buying furniture for a rental property, you’ll have to strike a balance between choosing that which you love and that which is practical. Choose hard-wearing, good quality and aesthetically pleasing furniture, especially if you expect wear and tear.
We’ve always advised clients not to “go for the cheap.” Whilst, this may save you money in the short-term, you will pay for it in the long-term by needing to replace it sooner than you had expected.
Laminates are one of the best options for flooring for a rental property. Carpets are not practical. They can get extremely dirty and need regular replacing. We suggest you choose mid to top end laminate boards as they are more robust and need much less attention than real or engineered wood. Washed oak and French grey are very popular finishes these days.
- Let there be light
A property that’s dark and dingy will put off any potential tenants. If there is not enough natural sunlight, install lamps and other forms of lighting to brighten up the place. You don’t need to spend a fortune on lighting. Go for neutral, plain coloured floor and table lamps that give the space a sense of airiness. If you have ceiling light fixtures, choose lampshades that face downwards to spread the light. Avoid large, ornate chandeliers that may not be to your tenant’s taste. The simpler the better.
As builders, we have worked with several clients on sprucing up their rental properties so that it looks great, but doesn’t break the bank. At the end of the day, if it looks and feel like a home, your tenants are likely to treat it as such.
Give us a call on 0208 191 7595 if you’d like to have a chat on how we can help you get your property tenant-ready.
Why not download our brochure to have a look at the kind of work we do?
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If you are embarking on a property renovations project, planning is key. You need to have all the major players in place before you can break ground, including architects, interior designers, builders and surveyors. At SDA Build London, our years of experience working on high-end property renovation projects have taught us the importance of working together and managing all the components that are involved in a property renovation project. So, not only are we building contractors, but we can manage your entire build from start to finish, including helping you choose the right architects, designers and suppliers for your project.
Whilst we have worked with some of London’s most talented and creative architects and designers, we are happy to work with your architect or designer. It’s important that your builders, architects and designers work closely together as a team to achieve your vision.
One of the most important people in your property renovation project is your architect. Without him or her, there is no project. It’s vital therefore, to find an architect that shares your vision, has the necessary skills and creative flair to implement that vision and one that has a working style you can align yourself to.
7 questions to ask when choosing an architect
(we suggest reviewing at least 3 accredited architects before taking a decision).
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Have you worked in the local area?
Architects who have worked in the area are more likely to know the local planning rules and regulations. It’s important that they understand the local authority planning rules and regulations and know the latest building regulations required. If they don’t, their design might be great, but if it can’t be built, your money is wasted.
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What are the size of projects you have done in the past?
Depending on the size of your project, you need to find out what kind of work the architect has done in the past. For example, if you need a complete rebuild of a large detached house, you don’t want someone whose biggest project has been a side extension. Make sure you see some of the work they have done first hand and speak to previous clients. Ask detailed questions on the architect’s ability to find solutions to problems that may arise during the build (they always do).
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Can you project manage?
It’s one thing to create designs for a property renovation project, it’s altogether another thing to manage all the aspects of the project. You need to find out how the architect works. Does he or she give your contractor all the drawings and leaves it to them to implement, or is the architect hands on, managing the various aspects of the project themselves including the builders, electricians, building control surveyors, etc.? This also depends on how involved you want the architect to be in terms of project management.
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Do you have any areas of specialisation?
Again, depending on the kind of work you are doing, you will need an architect who’s experienced in what you need. For example, basement conversion specialists, restoration or preservation specialists, green energy specialists or any other area of expertise that needs specialist treatment.
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What would you do with my project?
Whilst you may have an idea of what you want, does the architect make recommendations and suggestions? You can gauge an architect’s interest in a project by the time spent at your property in the first meeting, whether they listen to you and whether they have any immediate suggestions. Don’t expect them to give you all their thoughts before you officially hire them, but you should be able to assess their enthusiasm.
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Do you work with a specific structural engineer?
Architects and structural engineers work closely with each other and most architects have their own structural engineers they like to work with. Find out how many projects they have worked on together.
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How well do you manage timescales?
One of the most annoying aspects for a contractor is to have to chase architects and structural engineers for drawings and often projects are unnecessarily delayed because the architect has not sent the relevant drawings to your builder. Make sure the architect is responsive via email or mobile and comes back with answers to your queries in a timely manner or you will spend considerable amounts of time chasing for drawings and responses to any issues that may crop up.
Hiring an architect is one of the most important decisions you will make in your property renovation project. Make sure you do your homework by asking for references from previous clients and builders they have worked it. Make sure they are accredited by RIBA or any of the other industry accreditation bodies.
The SDA Build London team work with experienced architects that have a variety of specialisations. If you are thinking about a property renovation project, give us a call on 0208 191 7595 or email us at enquiries@sdabuildlondon.co.uk for a chat.
Why not book a FREE (no obligation) consultation? A member of our team will come around to your property, assess your needs, make some recommendations and provide you with a quote.
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